Holiday Destination: Provence

Where to find the best coffee in Marseille, why everyone is talking about Tuba and my new favourite restaurant in picturesque Provence.

J’adore Provence — it’s one of my favourite destinations for the euro summer with the perfect balance of sun, sea and French countryside. There are so many stunning towns to explore, small luxury hotels for discerning travellers and an incredible wine and food scene.

Early June, Sammy and I flew from Paris to Marseille for a three night long weekend away. We usually book our travel quite last minute but this trip we had planned for a little while, and it felt so good to be organised and have a few special reservations. 

We always love staying at Beaumier properties (Hôtel Les Roches Rouges and Le Moulin Lourmarin are favourites) and we have been keen to experience nearby Capelongue in Provence.

The property is stunning and the hour and a half drive from Marseille airport was dotted with endless wildflowers and a sea of poppies. When you arrive, the road divides the property into two sections. On the left is the reception as well as the main building, suites, restaurant and the original pool. There was a wedding the weekend of our stay and unfortunately this part of the property was reserved for wedding guests. To the right is the newer part of the property with little bungalows that open out to a second pool and restaurant. One night at Capelongue was perfect: going for an afternoon swim, eating a bowl of apricots and strawberries at golden hour and sharing truffle wood fired pizza for dinner.

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If you are deciding between the two Beaumier properties in the area, we found Le Moulin Lourmarin (about a 20 minute drive from Capelongue) to be our favourite, as it really feels more like a holiday home, than a hotel. There are also more common spaces for guests to use, which adds warmth and atmosphere, and a larger menu for lunch and dinner. Both properties were very family friendly but Le Moulin is in the heart of a beautiful Provencal town and also opposite a large oval, playground and has a farmers market every Friday. There is also a small produce store next door that is run by the hotel that has great picnic supplies, fresh baguettes, cheese and wine. I’d definitely love to return here with the boys this summer. 

A short drive from Capelongue was the picturesque town of Gordes in Lubéron, where Sammy had planned a very special birthday lunch reservation at Clover Gordes by Jean-François Piège. The restaurant is part of 5-star Airelles hotel, La Bastide de Gordes, and the view of the Lubéron valley from the terrace is beyond stunning. It was one of the most memorable lunches I’ve ever had — every dish was so thoughtful, designed around the local flavours of Provence. 

Order the signature Carbonara, made using wild caught squid to start, followed by the Argentinian ribeye grilled over charcoal with béarnaise sauce and delicacy potatoes. We also ordered a side of garden herbs and leaves, with lemon olive oil.

Hotel La Bastide de Gordes was also stunning and having seen the property in person, we would love to also return for a few nights. There are long areas of lawn for the boys to run around under the trees and also a separate pool for children. There were so many great local places in eat in town, including a crêperie (Atlas and Ocean would be very happy), that would work so well for families looking to stay for a few days. 

We visited Tuba (French for ‘snorkel’) in summer 2022 with the boys, when Ocean was just three months old and Atlas two and a half, for lunch and dinner, and haven’t stopped talking about returning since. It’s a small casual hotel set into the rocks that values great hospitality, excellent fresh food and the simple life.

Five of the rooms are super tiny but they have recently added three larger suites that have sweeping sea views. There is also a new rooftop restaurant, Bikini, and a separate private rooftop with lounge chairs exclusively for hotel guests to soak up the sun and sunsets. The suites also open out onto the living room and full kitchen, where breakfast is served. You are welcome to make a coffee or prepare meals throughout the day or simply relax on the vintage Togo lounges and play backgammon. 

Tuba is about a 30 minute drive away from Marseille and it was great to have a car to head into town for an oat flat white at Deep (Melbourne style coffee, always a favourite). Be sure to visit Jogging, a concept and fashion store that stocks brand such as Jacquemus, Courrèges, District Vision, Byredo, Astier de Villatte and Ormaie Paris. They also have a great restaurant and épicerie next door for lunch that welcomes chefs in residency over summer. 

For a natural wine and small plates, visit Figure, and for authentic Italian in a local neighbourhood, we always love Otto. Order the signature vesuvio pasta with cream and 36 month aged parmesan. 

The small considered menu at Tuba is always a highlight with daily specials and freshly caught fish (we loved the clams with nduja).

With the cliffs, I wouldn’t recommend staying at the property with small children, but if you’re after a two night casual romantic getaway to swim, eat, nap and repeat — it’s perfect. 

See you again soon Marseille! 

Bisous x

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